Do you know your fashion footprint? When it comes to our environmental crisis, fast fashion brands have a lot to answer for. Read on to learn the real cost of your cheap clothing and steps you can take to reduce the impact of your wardrobe on the planet.
This post was originally published in July 2020 and updated in May 2023.
In 2020, I set a goal to buy no new clothing. At the time, I did it purely in the interest of decluttering since I didn’t really need any new clothes. As I learned more about fast fashion, I realized buying fewer clothes is a goal we should all be working towards.
What is fast fashion anyway?
The term fast fashion comes from clothing manufacturers rushing to get new designs from the catwalks into your hands.
Not that many years ago, each year had four fashion seasons—spring, summer, fall and winter. In those days, the anticipation of the new spring styles gave us something to look forward to in wintertime.
In these days of instant gratification, no one wants to wait for anything. Fast fashion brands recognize this and aim to put new collections in their stores every week. Some, like popular retailers H&M and Forever 21 bring new clothing into their stores every day. The purpose is to make you think your clothes are out of date as soon as you’ve worn them once or twice. Don’t be fooled! It’s just a tactic to get you to buy more clothing, more often. And it’s working!
So, we’ve gone from four seasons a year to 52 or, in the most extreme examples, 365.
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Why is fast fashion a problem?
We hear a lot about the perils of single-use plastic. Did you ever stop to think that the fast fashion industry is in the business of making single-use disposable clothing? The problem is, unlike most single-use plastic, “disposable” clothing can’t be recycled.
Over the last 20 years, clothing production has doubled, and we are buying four times as many clothes as we were in the 80s. The average person in Canada and the United States buys 70 new clothing items each year. (Source: Earth.org) Who needs that many new clothes?
At the same time, many are keeping their clothing for less time. On average, people wear the garments they buy only 7 or 8 times before discarding them.
You might be wondering what the big deal is. What’s wrong with having something new to wear every week? Well, there are a few problems with this.
Environmental impact
According to BWSS.org the fashion industry is the second most polluting industry on earth, ranking only behind the oil industry. Textile dyeing has a horrible impact on our rivers, lakes and oceans. To put this into perspective, the United Nations Environment Programme reports that the fashion industry produces more carbon emissions globally than all international flights and maritime shipping. Next time you’re tempted to attack someone for their travel choices, stop and think about how many new items of fast fashion apparel you’re buying.
Did you know it takes 2,700 litres (700 US Gallons) of water to make one t-shirt? That’s equal to the amount of water the average person drinks in three years.
According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency, clothing takes up about 5% of landfill space. Considering it takes 80 years for clothing to break down in the landfill, that problem is not going away anytime soon.
Human impact
Fast fashion brands usually make clothing in sweatshops. Their mostly female workers are paid low wages and work in poor, sometimes dangerous, conditions.
Poor quality
The need to keep costs low results in low quality clothing that is not made to last. If we’re wearing it only seven times, why does it need to last?
Can’t I just donate my clothing?
You may try to justify your consumption of fast fashion by donating your unwanted clothing to people in need. But does the clothing you donate actually do anyone any good?
During my research, I found a documentary on CBC Marketplace called Clothing waste: Fashion’s dirty secret. The segment revealed that 85% of donated clothing ends up in landfill.
It turns out, there is way more unwanted clothing than there are people in need. Much of the clothing collected is shipped overseas only to end up being dumped or burned.
The fast fashion industry knows it has created a huge problem with single-use clothing. We’re starting to see collection bins in stores at some retailers where you can drop off your clothing in exchange for a coupon or discount. Although the stores would have you believe they turn your old clothes into new ones, don’t be fooled by the greenwashing! Clothing is difficult and costly to recycle. According to Elizabeth Cline, author of Overdressed and The Conscious Closet, only 1% of clothing collected in those bins is recycled.
So, if donating clothes isn’t the answer, what is?
How to reduce your impact
A good place to start is to learn about your personal fashion footprint. Visit ThredUp’s website and check out their Fashion Footprint Calculator. It will help you understand where you need to make changes.
The only way to solve the problem of fast fashion is to make changes in your consumption. Buying less clothing, ensuring the items you buy are quality pieces, and taking care of your clothes will make a difference.
Buy less new clothing
- The single best thing you can do is stop buying new clothing. Go through your closet and wear clothes you already own. Try mixing and matching different pieces to get a new look.
- Buy clothing from second hand stores and consignment shops. You can find quality items at a fraction of the price of new clothes.
- Consider renting clothing for special occasions. Do you really need to spend hundreds, or even thousands, of dollars on a dress for your prom or wedding?
- Organize a clothing swap with friends. You can all get a new look without spending any money. Throw in some appetizers and a bottle of wine, and it’s a fun night out.
- Shop your friends’ closets. Instead of buying a new outfit for every wedding or holiday party, borrow one from a friend. I have special occasion dresses hanging in my closet that I have worn only once or twice and I’m sure my friends are the same.
Buy quality items
- Look for clothing made from sustainable fabrics. Wool is grown naturally by sheep, goats and alpacas and is fully biodegradable. Hemp is fast growing and doesn’t require pesticides. Bamboo is also a good option, depending on how it is processed.
- Buy timeless, quality items that you like and will want to keep. Clothing items like a simple black or navy dress, or a well-made suit or blazer never go out of style. You can easily change up the look with scarves or different coloured shirts and blouses.
Look after your clothes to make them last longer
- Wash clothes in cold water. This will reduce shrinkage and make colours last longer.
- Avoid the dryer. I have t-shirts that I have owned for many years. My secret is never putting them in the dryer. I hang them to dry outside in the summer and inside in the winter.
- Repair your clothes. Instead of just throwing out clothes, fix them. Anyone can learn to sew on a button or fix a hem. For more complex jobs like zippers, find a tailor or seamstress.
- Wear clothes more than once before washing them. I don’t know anyone who enjoys doing laundry so why do we think we need to wash our clothes every single time we wear them? Most of us can get three or four wears out of pants and skirts before they need to be washed. Even shirts and blouses can usually be worn more than once.
With just a few small changes, you can significantly reduce your impact. ThredUp’s calculator told me I’m in the bottom 10% in terms of the impact of my wardrobe. I’ve achieved that by applying some of the behaviours I shared above.
It’s time for change. If companies won’t do the right thing, let your wallet do the talking. The cost of fast fashion to the Earth is too high.
What ideas do you have to reduce the impact of fashion? Tell us below.
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I’ve recently found out that a few major brands that I keep seeing advertised on social media, etc. are terrible purveyors of fast fashion. I can see why these businesses like it (cheap and quick to make; helping their bottom line) but it’s impact on the environment is unsustainable and so damaging — not to mention the awful working conditions some of the people who make these items often face. I do buy fast fashion items as sometimes I am limited with money but they end up being a false economy as they fall apart quickly so you have to buy them again. I am still transitioning away from buying fast fashion so it was a good reminder to read this!
Thanks, as always, for your thoughtful comment Molly. I also buy fast fashion from time to time, mainly for things like t-shirts. But I buy them with the mindset that I’ll wash and dry them carefully, and they’ll last me for years.
Another factor to consider is the mental health aspect of people thinking they’re inferior because (GASP) they are wearing the same clothes multiple times. The fast fashion industry is 100% responsible for creating that disposable mindset.
And yes, greenwashing is prevalent among fast fashion companies. It’s important to call it out when we see it.
I rarely buy clothes. Some of my clothes have come from people I work with and I don’t change them every day.
That’s great Rachel. We can save a lot of money, water, and energy by wearing our clothes more than once before washing.
Excellent advice – I agree, being more thoughtful with our purchases and taking better care with our existing wardrobe can make a big difference, especially if everyone puts in the effort.
Right! The whole trend toward disposable clothing is really disturbing to me. I prefer to buy items I really like that I want to keep for a long time. Throwing clothing away after wearing it a few times is so wasteful. Thanks for dropping by and commenting!
Thank you for all of the potent reminders, Michelle. Years ago I developed a love of vintage fashion and thrift stores (at the time there were spectacular shops in San Francisco that I liked to haunt) and I think I was drawn in by the novelty at first – and the history – and then I realized how well- made many items were, compared to contemporary fashion. Plus – I secretly enjoyed daydreaming about former owners. 😉 Fast fashion is a scary environmental threat and your post makes that point so well. Thank you! 😘
Daydreaming about former owners – that’s amazing Vicki. You are a true creative. There are so many wonderful thrift and consignment shops around. One of my daughters buys all her clothes second hand. I love that she does that.
Oh…that’s so cool about one of your daughters. Yay! It takes a little ingenuity to figure out how to use some pieces, but I remember finding a 40’s ‘zoot suit’ sort of jacket in a wild mustard color that I converted into a vest. I wore that jacket-turned-tunic-vest in the 80’s until it literally fell apart. 🤣 Thanks for all the fun memories you prompted Michelle. Another example of how we can be good to Earth and have fun at the same time. xo! 🥰
My mom has introduced me to thrift store shopping. I have found some great finds while shopping there and have saved a lot of money on some new pieces of clothing found at a thrift store. I started to declutter last year and will continue to do so as the year goes on.
You can definitely pick up some great items at thrift stores and consignment shops. I have bought very few clothes during the pandemic, but when I need something I’ll definitely be thrifting!
This post is so in point with a simple lifestyle. As I scaled back my own wardrobe, I bought only long lasting classic pieces. Not boring but more “me” and more comfy. If we all followed an eco approach, we might be far more comfortable in our own skin and the planet would benefit!
Thank you! You’re right. People sometimes thing you need more and more to keep things interesting but you definitely can do more with less. These days, I much prefer quality over quantity. You can always add a little pizzazz to basic pieces with jewellery and accessories.
Great tips! It’s so surprising the amount of hidden gems you can find when you buy clothes from charity shops – I need to start shopping there more often. It can be so tempting to pick up cheap clothes but it’s so important to bear in mind the big picture. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! I definitely need to get into the habit of visiting charity shops more often. Right now, I am not doing much shopping and plan to “shop my closet” more in the future. But if I do want something different, that’s definitely what I will do.
I love this list! I haven’t bought more than a couple of new clothing items in the last year and a half since I have been traveling full time and I’ve never felt freer. When I was back home, I would always make sure I was at my friend’s house during her “spring cleaning” so that I could get all of her extra clothes. My next goal is to identify a few brands whose values align with mine and have decent clothing options for my tall frame. Part of fast fashion for me used to be due to not having a lot of money and wanting variety. Now I am happier spending more for quality pieces and having less decisions in the morning!
That’s great Kat. I agree that less is more. I would rather have fewer clothes but items that last than a closet full of junk.
This was such an interesting read! I really didn’t know some of the things about Fast Fashion. Thank you for sharing this piece with us. I haven’t bought anything new in a very long time. You can find some real treasures in second hand stores, really. There are some high-quality clothes on an affordable price. It’s really not worth giving hundreds of dollars to fashion companies considering the fact that these clothing cost them no more than a couple of dollars. 🙁
Great post, Michelle.
Thanks, Alexandra. Yes, environmental impact aside, the fact that they produce their goods with low quality materials and in horrible working conditions makes it worse. Good for you buying at second hand stores!
This is so eye opening! I am amazed at the idea people buy 70 items of clothing per year. That’s a LOT of items cycling through the system. Thank you for sharing all of this info! I’m going to check out the CBC marketplace documentary.
Thanks. I was shocked by some of these stats too. It really is unbelievable.
This is a great post, and I agree that fast fashion should be eliminated as much as possible. I’ve made a really conscious effort over the last couple of years to not buy new clothing unless I actually needed it, and I would make sure that it was something that would hopefully last a long time. Thanks for sharing 🙂
Thanks for reading. I was shocked by some of the things I learned when researching this article, especially about the trend toward “disposable” clothing. It’s great to hear you’re buying less and buying quality. That’s the number one thing to do to make a difference.
Love this. I have been trying not to buy anything new. For a job interview recently I wore a dress that was over 20 years old, x
That’s awesome. I also have clothes that I have owned for 20 years.
I love this post. It’s so true that we are throwing away our money on clothes more and more. And so many of the things we buy are super super cheap in quality. I’d much rather buy quality than buy items that are poorly made. And I have always been one to stretch the life my clothes by not washing every single time I wear them.
Good to hear you have developed some good habits. Not washing every time makes a huge difference. I actually have t-shirts that I have owned for close to 20 years!
I am a HUGE fan of thrifting. It’s like a sport for me – Can I find the greatest items at the lowest cost… That mindset has saved me a TON of money when it comes to my wardrobe while helping me to score some great pieces that get compliments everywhere I go. What’s not to love about it??
I agree. I haven’t done a lot of thrifting in the last but next time I need something, I definitely will.
This was a very eye-opening post! I am guilty of purchasing new clothes often, but since quarantine I’ve been cutting down on expenses and haven’t actually purchased new clothes since April! Loved reading this.
Much love always,
GABBY | http://www.gabbyabigaill.com
Thank you. The more I learn about fast fashion, the more I realize what a problem it is. I have been doing really well with not buying new clothes. Quarantine definitely helps.
Great post! Believe it or not I still wear clothes that I bought 10 years ago. I’m lucky they still fit! I totally agree with wearing an article of clothing more than once without washing them. I wear pants/shorts up to 5 times or more before washing, same as pyjamas. Now that I can afford to, the rare time that I do buy new clothes I buy good quality items that will last years. One bonus that I have is being in a same-sex relationship; my partner and I have a bunch of clothes that we share! LOL!
I’m the same. I have so many clothes that I’ve owned for years. I actually can’t imagine getting rid of something I’ve only worn a few times. Good point about the same sex relationship. I hadn’t thought about that.
Your Blog is timed perfectly with my goal of not buying fast fashion! Being in isolation last year for 8 weeks and this year thus far, we do not need so much STUFF! I can do with far less now than ever. Recently I purchased a sewing machine to make masks out of old clothing. I cut all the sleeves off long sleeve shirts and use fabric for many things. So many ideas, I like your idea of renting clothing, Well,the Movie stars do it, why shouldn’t we!! ThankYou, great ideas!
Thanks. Yes, I am buying a lot less and trying to declutter too. Good for you with the sewing. It’s something I never learned to do!
I had no idea about the fact that 85% of clothes donations end up in a landfill! And the water usage to make one t-shirt? I’m rethinking my entire wardrobe, Michelle! I really appreciate this post! Thanks!
Thanks Cher. Yes, it is quite shocking!
That’s for sure!!
Thanks Michelle, always love reading your material! I know you do your research! I like the friends/family shopping of their closets….my sister and I will often share those dresses to go to special occasions! Actually when I look at some of my clothes, I have had them for many, many years!!!! During the Pandemic, not wearing my work clothes made me realize just how many pieces of clothing that I actually have and if I continued to work from home; how much more I DON’T need!
Thanks Sandra. Glad to hear you are doing some of this stuff already. Like you, I have clothing that I have owned for years. The 7-8 wears stat shocked me the most. I just can’t imagine. I keep my clothes until they wear out!
Great article. Very interesting and informative.
Thanks Rose!
Informative and insightful article! I appreciate the research citations.
Thank you for reading and taking the time to comment!